Paris - Part Deux

Following on from my recent post about having afternoon tea at the Peninsula, I thought I’d share a little bit more about our trip to Paris. 

Image by Małgosia Frej

Prior to my 30th I’d deliberated a lot about how to celebrate. My birthday fell on a Wednesday which meant that my friends would all be busy in work. I was adamant that I didn’t want the day to just pass me by without doing something memorable. A few weeks before the big day I was flicking through Instagram when I saw a quote saying “I want to wake up in Paris”.

And that was it, decision made! I’d been to Paris for my 18th and 21st so it made perfect sense to go again for my 30th. A few months after my birthday it was my mum’s 60th as well and so I didn’t have to think too long about who to invite with me to celebrate. 

Tickets were booked and Mum and I travelled down to London and across to Paris on the Eurostar on the Sunday, arriving in Gare du Nord just after sunset. The plan was to fill Monday will lots of sightseeing for my mum and the Tuesday was for my interests before waking up in Paris on Wednesday and then travelling back home to celebrate with my family. 

Once we arrived in Gare du Nord we hopped into a taxi and made our way across Paris to the Hotel Duminy Vendôme. It was easy to pick the hotel, I had one major requirement… that it had to be close to Chanel Rue Cambon (more of that in Paris Part Trois). 



The hotel is perfectly situated in the 1st arrondissement, within a few minutes walk of the Louvre and the Jardin des Tuileries. It’s clean, contemporary and has a striking dining room. It’s very reasonably priced considering its location at about £110 per night (in contrast, the nearby Mandarin Oriental is roughly £700!). The bedrooms and bathrooms were on the small side but we had opted for single rooms and this is Paris after-all! 

As soon as we had unpacked, we went for a walk around the area, taking our time to admire the fabulous shop displays including DiorLaduree and Chanel as well as visiting Pierre Hermé for some of his famous macarons. We walked to the prestigious square, Place Vendôme, to admire some of the most luxurious addresses in Paris. It is home to the Ritz hotel, where Coco Chanel lived for nearly thirty years, as well as designer stores such as CartierBulgari and Louis Vuitton

We stopped at La Coupe D’Or for something to eat. It doesn’t get the best reviews on TripAdvisor but it suited us perfectly, perhaps due to the generous wine servings! We sat outside of the restaurant sipping our wine and eating chocolate dessert while watching Parisians go about their business. If you’ve ever been to Paris you’ll know that people watching is a sacred pastime. Tables and chairs generally face outwards so that each person can sit watching passers-by. After the vino we were ready for an early night so returned to the hotel ready for our early start the next day.

The following morning we set off to visit one of Paris’s famous flea markets. My mum loves antique hunting and has always wanted to visit the markets, of which there are several dotted around the city. We decided upon Marché aux Puces de Saint Ouen, a 20 minute taxi ride to the north. The market is held on Saturdays, Sundays and Mondays. It’s vast with over 2,500 stalls attracting both tourists and antique dealers in equal measure. It sells everything from photo frames to huge pieces of furniture and is a complete maze, I don’t think we covered even half of it before our feet gave up on us. It’s also a bit misleading to call it a flea market. Nothing comes cheap (150 euros for a small mirror!). Apparently you’re expected to haggle, starting at about 50% of the original price, but even then it’s still expensive. We were also restricted to buying smaller items due to having to carry them back home on the train. I’d still recommend a visit though, it’s worth a trip even if you don’t buy anything. 

After the flea markets we grabbed a taxi and went to Basilica Sacre-Coeur. My mum had never been before and she was amazed at how beautiful it was. The Basilica is based on Roman architecture and took over 40 years to build. Despite the crowds, the view from the steps is the most spectacular in Paris, no wonder since it is the highest point at 130 meters above the city. Tourist favourite, harpist Hugo, was playing The Beatles Let it Be as we arrived. We stood together listening to him play while looking out over the city. We then went inside the church to light some candles. It’s stunning inside, you’re not really allowed to take photographs but I 'accidentally' took a couple.

We then walked down to Place du Tertre. This is a square behind the Basilica where lots of famous artists used to paint. Today, many artists still congregate and paint or draw caricatures for tourists. It has a fantastic atmosphere and you really feel the history of the area and of those who have stepped foot there previously. Picasso, Van Gogh, Hemingway and countless others lived and worked there. As you walk around you can see wall plaques identifying historic buildings and cafes. If you’ve ever seen the film Midnight in Paris, it captures the spirit of this area perfectly. 

Having navigated the steep steps and narrow cobblestone streets of Montmartre, all pretty with the classic lampposts and trees leading the way, we stopped off in a little restaurant for some pizza. Having topped ourselves up, we went on a little tour of Montmartre which has its own vineyard, famous cemetery and beautiful parks, not to mention the Moulin Rouge. However, I was eager for mum to see more of Paris’s sights and so persuaded her to head back into the city centre. 

We decided to take a boat cruise along the Seine which allowed us to see the main sights in one hour including the Eiffel TowerNotre Dame Cathedral and Musée d’Orsay. I’d definitely recommend going on either a boat tour or a bus tour of the city. There are so many beautiful places to see, if you’re restricted on time it’s the perfect way to see the main attractions. Yes it’s a touristy thing to do but it’s touristy for a reason. Our boat ticket cost around 16 euros each but it was a two day ticket so not much more expensive than the underground and with much prettier views. 

Once we had finished on the boat tour we walked along the Seine stopping to view the lock bridge, Pont des Arts, and some more artists painting along the river bank. We then walked around the Louvre and the Tuileries. This part of Paris is really gorgeous. It’s has beautiful architecture with perfectly manicured gardens. It’s one of Paris’s only open lawns for picnics and was full of Parisians catching the last of the days sunshine.

We were exhausted from all the walking and sightseeing so went back to La Coupe D’Or for some crusty baguette with cheese, red wine and more people watching before getting an early night ready for the following day…

On The Hill, Ruthin

We discovered On The Hill last year purely by chance while on a road trip through North Wales.

Ruthin is a historic market town nestled on the edge of the Vale of Clwyd. It’s often my experience that the prettier the town - Ruthin really is picture perfect - the uglier the dining scene; the usual tourist trap of poor food, poor service and eye-watering high prices.

So it was with some trepidation that I loaded the TripAdvisor app on my phone. Hungry enough that even a soggy panini would have sufficed, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the #1 rated restaurant in the local area was just a few hundred metres away. Reviews across the board were fantastic; 5 star ratings from 500+ reviewers.

Housed in a 16th century building, hidden on a side street just off the picturesque St Peter’s Square, this family-run bistro is a real find. On The Hill successfully marries friendly and efficient service with well-presented delicious food. Exposed beams, pew seating and creaky wooden floors all add to the character of the relaxed surroundings.

The menu is well varied, with a large selection of locally sourced foods available. There is a good selection of vegetarian options available too.

The meal started well with complimentary breads and olives which were delicious. So delicious that I seriously contemplated cancelling my food order to request further helpings!

My friend started with fish cakes, while I had the cream of leek, smoked cheddar & apple soup with crispy croutons.

To follow, I had the ‘Vegetarian trio’ (goats cheese, spinach, tomato & chilli filo parcel, a mozzarella, flame roasted red pepper ‘arancini’, and a ricotta cheese & asparagus ravioli with chick pea relish, artichoke puree, charred courgette, herb oil, served with a dressed salad), and my friend had ‘Welsh pork’; twice cooked crispy braised pressed belly, char-grilled tenderloin & crispy pulled shoulder, parsnip dauphinois, apple & Dijon mustard cream, buttered sweetheart cabbage, and cider gravy on the side & vegetables. Gorgeous!

When the bill comes we are always pleasantly surprised given the fantastic quality of the food. Our two-course meal for two cost us just under £35.  Booking ahead is essential, so too is arriving slightly early as parking can be difficult to find.

Despite being a 2 hour round-trip from home, we’ve returned to On The Hill several times. Never have we received a less-than-excellent meal. I would go so far as to say this might be the best value food in North Wales.

On The Hill Restaurant

1 Upper Clwyd St, Ruthin LL15 1HY

01824 707 736

The Club House, Liverpool One

Liverpool has been abuzz recently with the opening of The Club House, a Hamptons style “pub” on Chavasse Park.

Brought to us by the New World Trading Company, this is the 12th venue for the company who also own The Smugglers Cove in the Albert Dock as well as the Botanist and Trading House brands in Newcastle, Leeds, Birmingham…. the list goes on!

The interior decor of The Club House is inspired by a New England-style Hamptons beach house with a nautical theme, perhaps paying homage to Liverpool’s port history. White panelled walls and a grand staircase greet you as you enter. There is a stunning feature chandelier made from 64 suspended champagne flutes and wine glasses. Photographs and keepsakes are dotted around which make you feel as though you’re in someone’s home.

Upstairs there is a wrap around terrace with double doors opening into a dining room which accommodates up to 15 guests for private parties. There is an open kitchen which prepares deli style meals which are available all day every day. The food is simple but hearty. 

The owners have deliberately steered the venue away from being called a restaurant, preferring for it to be seen as a relaxed pub. There is a beer tasting room complete with self-service taps. There will also be Ale Tasting Masterclasses available here, and cocktails are served on draught. Yes really, cocktails on draught! Apparently they are made fresh on site and then poured through draught. The garnishes and juices are all added in after the draught is poured so that it's fresh. 

Outside the pavilion-style building there is an outside kitchen and BBQ for rotisserie style dishes, the wonderful smells waft out as you walk past. There is a a huge outdoor seating area that can cater for up to 400 covers. This is sure to be a hit when the sun’s out!

Once we had been shown to our table on the upstairs terrace, we ordered a glass of Prosecco each while we inspected the menu. We were introduced to our waiter, Chris, who was excellent. All of the team provided fantastic service with more than £100,000 apparently being invested solely in staff training prior to the launch last week. 

We began by ordering a baked Camembert and fruit starter to share for £6.95. The hot melted cheese drizzled with sweet honey served on soft warmed bread went down a treat.

We then both chose from the deli board menu which offers four choices for £9.95 all served with fresh warm Turkish flatbread. I opted for hummus, home-dried tomatoes, potato salad and a chunk of Lancashire blue cheese. My friend chose the same tomato and potato dishes but with poached salmon and pomegranate and minted pearl couscous. The deli boards are a great option, allowing you to choose lots of little dishes which can be shared within a group. There are also some pub food favourites on the menu with a selection of classic pies, burgers and steaks. 

Having convinced ourselves that our mains were relatively “healthy”, we allowed ourselves some dessert, all of which are priced at £4.95. Mine was a warm apple crumble with custard while my friend had a Hanging Strawberry, Marshmallow and Chocolate Kebab. This is definitely the star of the menu consisting of strawberries and marshmallows on a skewer while Sailor Jerry chocolate sauce is poured as it is served at the table, allowing the chocolate to slowly trickle down the hanging kebab. You can also opt for this dessert without the rum although I can’t imagine many people will. 

After our desserts we sat for a while enjoying the live music. The music is a mixture of new and old and played on a piano or guitar. Live music will feature every evening as well as Sunday afternoons. 

There’s definitely a bit of theatre to The Club House. I love the concept and think it’s a brilliant new addition to Liverpool. The location is perfect. You can do a little shopping in Liverpool One and then pop up to Chavasse Park for some food and drinks with beautiful views across the Liverpool docks. 

I’m looking forward to returning in the summer to sit outside in a deckchair with a cocktail in hand. The Club House is sure to be Liverpool’s al fresco dining destination this summer!

The Club House, Liverpool One

Chavasse Park, Liverpool One, L2 9SQ

0151 709 5366

Mr Paddington

There's someone I’d like you to meet. He's tall, dark, handsome & came into my life a few months ago. 

He also likes to chase after leaves, leap into the sky after seagulls and digs gargantuan holes in the garden.

It’s my pleasure to introduce to you the Cocktail Saturdays pup’, Mr Paddington (aka Paddy).

Paddy has just turned 6 months old. He's a Goldendoodle; his mum is a standard Poodle, and his dad a Golden Retriever. We've always had Golden Retrievers in our family. They’re beautiful dogs with an outgoing and athletic nature together with a calm affectionate temperament. However, the one downside to a Golden Retriever is the shedding of their coat. Hence why we decided upon a Goldendoodle. Paddy is an F1 Goldendoodle which means he only sheds lightly, if at all. They’re part of the so called “hypo allergenic” breed of dogs. 

We decided upon his name for two reasons, firstly because my young niece and nephew were watching the film Paddington when we decided to buy a new pup and secondly, he resembles a Peruvian bear!

He's currently in the teething stage, none of our furniture is safe from him leaving his mark (quite literally). An antique chest of draws, a dining table and a kitchen unit have all fallen victim to Paddy's super-sharp gnashers. 

He has a wonderfully friendly nature and I’m sure you will see him popping up in future posts...

Mason + Rye, Newcastle

Last weekend while I was in Newcastle, I followed the recommendation of Chérie City and visited Mason + Rye.

Located in the newly refurbished Food Hall at Fenwick’s, Mason + Rye is a bakery-patisserie-café which specialises in fine patisserie and artisan baking. Fenwick’s was founded in 1882 and is now one of the largest department stores in the UK, set in a beautiful building on Northumberland Street.

Designed by a firm which has previously worked with Harrods and Fortnum & Mason, this is not your usual department store cafe! White walls and glass counters give an impressive, modern feel with timber and chalkboard menus cladding the walls. The centrepiece is a “theatre bakery” for diners to watch the pastry chefs at work crafting a range of delicious foodie treats.

For tea lovers, there is a a varied selection of teas if you need some refreshment mid-shopping spree. For food, the menu includes breakfast and lunch options which you can either eat in or take away. 

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Following a late Saturday night of drinking cocktails, it was the perfect place to grab Sunday brunch. There are healthy options such as grilled goats cheese tart or avocado, lemon juice and chilli on sour dough toast. The afternoon tea is also popular, served daily from 3.00pm, with visitors able to take home a box of fresh individual handmade cakes. The glass displays are a sight for sore eyes with beautiful eclairs, macaroons and delicious mini pastries. Perfect for those who have a sweet tooth.

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The Food Hall itself features local produce including a number of products which are exclusive to Fenwick’s. All types of diets and tastes are catered for with specialist wines, cheeses and breads from around the world. It’s also a chocoholics dream with brownies and truffles aplenty. 

I completely fell in love with the Food Hall. If you ever visit Newcastle, make sure you pop along to see it for yourself!

Fenwick

39 Northumberland Street, Newcastle Upon Tyne, NE99 1AR